And the Mountains Echoed!!

 

And the mountains echoed

“What make mountains so intriguing? Is the mammoth size that mesmerizes us or the acrophobia that kicks into our mind that make these structures invincible- larger than life characters that fill our senses with awe. The degree of isolation at that height is n^th to the power infinity. The social interactions of trees and animals are negligible. The by-product of those nonexistent social interactions is what we call tranquility. The mountains are just rock and ice which is what Earth was eons ago at the start of human made “time”. I think they are the only remaining pieces of our vintage Earth. Reminiscent of these early stages of our planet, we are attracted to the mountains- is that the reason? May be!”

This train of thoughts enter my mind and lingers around for a while. That is because it is the 4^th day of our trek, currently, we are 500ft shy of reaching the summit of Dayara Bugyal (~12,000 ft) trek in Uttarakhand and are in the process of the final push to summit. This train of thoughts is the testimony to the hysterical fact that you tend to get philosophical when you are in the mountains. I think it is probably due to absence of the numerous neuron interactions that we have in our regular mundane lives. No social media (where chunk of our brain is occupied), no responsibilities other than basic survival (breathing and eating), fewer human interactions limited to a handful people in your trek group and as the corporate gurus would say “A lot of me time”.

The trek leaders signal us to stop at a frozen lake for a breather. The stagnant brown lake looks cold and sickly. The cold and sickly remind me of how we almost missed this trek. Recap to my birthday (2 days before leaving for the trek), Ketaki (my wife) developed fever and chills. In normal circumstances, she would have popped a pill and continued with our preparation for the trek. However in the era of Covid, a slight sneeze also questions your ability to socialize. Thus started the roller coaster ride to the doctor (who traumatized us with the possibility of Covid) and then to the most dreaded thing one can think about- Yes you guessed it right- RT-PCR test. RT-PCR test can officially be part of the armor used for 3^rd degree torture. The wait for the results is tense as we isolate ourselves from others. The result fortunately was negative and I believe we should thank the mountains and not just stars for giving us a safe passage.

Gangotri Ranges- Our North star

The flight from Mumbai to Delhi and the train journey further till Dehradun was quite uneventful. Nervous energy was brewing inside us with anticipation of what to expect. Especially after the physical preparations we had put in. Can you imagine training physically for a vacation-1 month before? 5kms in 40 mins- that was the criteria to prove that you have it in you to go for these treks. Ketaki and I diligently jogged, put in the hours at the gym and tried to get ready mentally. And imagine one sneeze could topple all those efforts. Those were the mind games played during our journey till base camp.

Day1: Travel to Base village: Raithal

Trip from Dehradun station to our base camp Raithal. The bunch of people boarded in jeeps to take on the summit of Dayara Bugyal. The constants of our trek experience: Doctors, Engineers, professionals, business people, students – our trek group and the mighty Gangotri ranges. The Gangotri ranges welcomed us just after we exited Mussorie. The Gangotri ranges were like our north star. Giving us the direction to reach our destination. About 5-6 hours journey, we entered the holy Gangotri village in the Uttarkashi district. Roads winding up the mountain like the a snake tracing its path on the mountain. The anticipation of reaching your destination after a tiring journey force you to calculate the remaining distance and time in a hyper loop speed in the brain. A delirium sets in with the gushing river, majestic mountains, sleepless journeys and curvy roads that the only saving grace is the mathematical calculation of time, speed and distance to destination. 

Evening Rays on Gangotri from our base camp: Raithal

We reach our base village Raithal where we are greeted with the diminishing ray of light just bouncing off our North star. The sinusoidal nature of noise and quietness in a day of the city life directs our circadian rhythm. However, at the base camp the ears and skin sense a change. Eerily quiet atmosphere and soft unadulterated breeze create waves of goosebumps. The feeling transports you to a time when life was simple in the old days. This is exactly the precedent we needed to start this trek. Introductions and important instructions were laid down by the team and we were all set for the next day morning.

Day 2: Raithal(Altitude-7k feet) to Gui (Altitude-9.6k feet)

‘Winter is here!” is the legendary dialogue in the Game of Thrones series signifying torturous cold conditions. Winter was definitely coming to Raithal and spreading its icy hands on our bodies without regards to the thermals, sweaters, fleece jacket and padded jacket. Waking up in this condition was the challenge to overcome. The saving grace was the yummy and hot breakfast that energized us to our bones. The trek started through some steep climbs surrounded by some rhododendrons and oaks. Led by two locals – Bobby and Amit and Indiahikes guides: Nikita and Darshan. B&A are these boys with extreme weathered reddish skin, short height and playful eyes that hide a child’s naughtiness.  Don’t be fooled by the build of Bobby and Amit, they are different league of superhumans. But I will elaborate on this interesting story later. We were a group of 20 people with diverse physical characteristics: tall, fat, well-built, thin, obese and short. Yet one thing common was lack of lung power to cope with the climb. The flared nostrils gasping for more air, raised heartbeat and frequent breaks were a constant reminder of importance of cardio exercises. In fact, Ketaki and I experienced this when we ascended the Nanheghat and Prabalgad (local mountain climbs in Maharashtra) just couple of months back. Ketaki will swear to the leg bruises and dilated lung conditions during these treks post. We thought it would have prepared us well for this trek. Well, the Himalayas are in a different league and so the challenges posed are also different level.  Mountain shrubbery and wildflowers constantly accompanied us in our ascent.

(L): Enroute to first break point (R): Resting on natural seats at first break point

I am sure a lot of us would have cried with joy when we reached our first break point. It was this wonderful grassland overlooking the Gangotri ranges. Some fallen logs became our chairs. Caught our breaths and flexed our sore muscles. I’m sure some even contemplated their decision of coming out of their comfort zones and coming on this trek. Yes! treks are not easy, but what is in life? Treks give us an unfiltered joy of enjoying nature in its best and sense of accomplishment to boost confidence and an outlet to our constant decay of life. This break point in a matter of few weeks will be covered in snow. Green, Brown, Yellow all submerged in a coat of white. My mind tried to visualize this scene and expand my imagination. That’s when we got the orders to march forward. It was so easy for the mind to drift here. This was magic for me. As we continued our climb, we came across tall oak trees which must have seen hundreds of winters. 

The Coin Pierced tree for safe passage

There is an interesting tree on the way which is filled with coins. It was a different experience seeing coins semi-inserted into the bark of the tree giving the impression of a severely tattooed and ornament pierced person. The story goes that the coins are an offering given by passers for a safe journey through the mountains and jungles. We continued our journey towards the first base camp. The Gui basecamp is on a slight flatland which gave us the opportunity to learn the method of tent pitching. With yellow tents, green grass and white mountains were painting a beautiful portrait. Who knew there was a horror awaiting us. It was a horror where people lost sleep, stopped eating and got the cold sweats.

Horror- Bio-toilet!!

Keeping the ecosystem in mind, bio-toilets are designed to minimize disruption to the environment. The team digs a hole and sets up a tent. The only ammunitions are toilet paper and sawdust. No water!!! Im sure all of us fought different internal wars to use them. Every evening we had a reflection session and team bonding activities.

(L): Next morning frozen water droplets (R): Delicious homely meals

The night came in gently with its icy hands and steely grit to make our teeth clatter and freeze our mind. With a great meal we called it a day and retired to our tents

That night the temperature fell below zero degrees.

 

Day 3: Gui camp(Altitude-9.6k feet) to Chilapada camp (Altitude-10.4k feet)

The morning was bright with sunshine. The Gangotri ranges smiling at us with all their white glow. Perfect start for the 3^rd day of our trek. Three stories of that day come to my mind which induced my philosophical thinking trail.

The Superhuman story:

One of our trek members suffered from altitude sickness. The person had to be descended to the base camp. The superhuman guide was given the responsibility to descend 2600ft. We assumed that they would reach by late afternoon, and we will get the confirmation on the walky-talky. Scarcely did we know that the same guide will reach the Chilapada campsite at the same time as us. A descent of 2600 ft and an ascent of 3400ft and the superhuman had not even broken a sweat. This person epitomized the physical and mental strength of the mountain people. We boast of our superior brains with fat paychecks but we are empty greedy souls with the hunger for other’s validation of our lives. Yet this person with simple physical prowess garnered so much respect and awe that our lives looked shallow. This he did with a mundane ease of dusting the dust of his shirt. No amount of cardio exercises and gym muscle beating programs can develop this moral fiber

 

Centuries old houses:

As we started our ascent, our first break came at a picturesque flatland. It was a canvas view of the Gangotri ranges in full glory. Yet that was not the best thing in that moment. On the gradual slopes of the mountain were 10-12 brown houses. These houses looking like moles on the face of the mountain were made of wood. Each house having a small courtyard fenced to house the cattle. Dayara Bugyal means an alpine land where cattle graze in the summer. The function of the house was to house the cattle for grazing purpose

Centuries old houses

Nothing extravagant or worth noticing. What makes these simple houses special? These houses have survived layers of snow, wind and rain. It housed generations of humans and cattle. It was so simple and yet so majestic. Simple structures that have stood the test of time. If there was a carbon dating mechanism to measure the emotions and behaviors of human and cattle over the last few hundred years, this would be the ground zero.

 

Hug the tree

What a romantic thought. Yes Indeed! It was romancing with trees. Our trek leaders had us at a site filled with oak trees. Tall and century old oak trees towering us who have seen many moons. Whose experience of life is more that our grandparents. The activity was simple. Choose a tree and just spend 10 minutes in silence conversing with the tree. Hug it and soak all the positivity that the trees can offer. What an experience it was! It is said that all the trees are connected to each other through the earth and roots. They converse. We hug our loved ones in joy and sorrow. These trees we hugged as a gratitude for life. That feeling of lightness of the soul by unburdening your daily struggles to becoming part of something big in the universe that the trees represent is overwhelming.

This wholesome experience was rewarded with the sight of the elusive Himalayan griffin.

 

Illuminated Snow peaks at sunset

As we drew curtains on the third day, one more magical moment happened. One of the most beautiful sunsets that I have ever seen in my life. Initially, the mountain tops illuminated with the last crimson rays of the sun. The snow on the mountains just lit up like the Diwali night. As the seconds passed, the crimson light disappeared and gave way to purplish tinge in the background of the mountains. This gave the mountains a halo that will be permanently etched in my mind. This pure joy of seeing something so holy (not in religious sense but a natural puristic one) can only be achieved in off beat places.

 

The Halo on the mountains post the SUnset

Day 4: Dayara Bugyal summit (~12k feet) and Nayata campsite

The journey was an arduous one. The preparation for it too was thorough. Previous evening games had energized us. Now with our ‘lakshya’ in mind we set off at 5 in the morning. Mountains in the dark have a deathly vibe. There is infinite abyss below and no sight of things above. Maneuvering through the trails in dark was an exhilarating experience. Senses at full alert for the slightest stimuli of information, heart beats racing, dry mouth in anticipation and bracing the cold mornings – we ascended the mountains towards Dayara Bugyal summit. We reached a point where there were signs of civilization and yet no living being. Carcasses of mules and remnant of skulls gave the area an eerie feeling. This was supposed to be our Sunrise point!! What an anti-climax. I kid you not, the sunrise was spectacular. We are all accustomed to sunrises on the beach. The charm of sunrises in mountains is different. The sun capped mountains illuminate in the fresh rays of sun into a magical canvas of blue sky, mountain tops and the green grasslands. The sun rays bouncing off the peaks is a visual treat.

(T): Sunrise from mountains (B): Empty houses with Bandarpooch peak in background

Interestingly, we could see the mountain peak of ‘Bandarpuch’ (>6000m peak) towards the west side. Folklore mentions that in the Sanskrit epic- Ramayana- the monkey headed god ‘Hanuman’ extinguished his burning tail on the summit of this mountain during the war in Lanka. That’s why the name Bandar pooch or Monkey’s tail.

Soaking the positive sunrise, we proceeded towards the summit climb. Dayara Bugyal is one of the high-altitude alpine meadows in the world. Grasslands which peak and trough but are relatively flat. This asset of the alpine meadows gives a large canvas view of the Garhwal mountain range. In summers and autumns, this grassland serves as fodder for cattle and in winters, the entire stretch of grasslands is submerged in the snow cover. The autumns are a time of colors.

Dayara Bugyal: the Alpine meadows

Returning to my initial break 500ft. shy of the summit besides the lake. You will appreciate the context better now. The breath-taking views, the eerie feeling of isolation, the gratitude to trees and expanding lung capacity had led us to this moment. The final peak was a short hill with shrubbery and mountain mice dancing around. The trek team members had come a long way. Some away from parents for the first time, some away from family, some away from daily tribulations and some in anticipation of adventure and some to escape in the lap of nature- No one was disappointed. As we made our way to the peak- the moment gave us the brief solitude in the presence of flora and fauna and mountains that one yearns for. Those moments of silence and breeze creating ripples on your cheeks serve as a constant reminder – Life needs to be decorated with pearls of memories and a jewelry of positivity which you constantly wear.

Enroute the summit

With photographs and hi-5s we concluded our mental roller coaster to tame the peak. As we descended towards our final campsite, a feeling of emptiness started pervading inside. Don’t get me wrong. The feeling of jubilation was immense, but just like you achieve something the next moments lack the momentum that was built for the struggles ahead. Either you construct another goal or submerge into a meaningless existence. As we passed the autumn shades of yellow and red, these thoughts reverberated in the mind.

The descent was not as easy as we anticipated. The tired reflexes were trying to keep our senses sharp, however the fatigue in the muscles were waging a constant war. In these scenarios the mind tries to fool the body by giving repeated reassurances of the remaining distance. Every time the innocent body gets fooled. Through some thick oak tree jungles, we descended through a series of rhododendron trees. Ascended small hills with the fading view of the snow-capped mountains. Muscle stiffness gave way to a mental indifference as we tried to find the faintest sign of a camp area. Navigating through the fallen trees, we passed through lakes and the reddish autumn leaves. And light of hope at the end of the tunnel of despair was visible through the yellow dots (the tents) from a distance. All the stiff muscles breathed a sigh of relief as we charted our way to the camp and relaxed.

(L): Ketaki and I at the peak (R): Trek team completing the Dayara Bugyal trek

Warm food and pleasant company eased our burden of the physical exertion. Sleep came easily and the sweet feeling of exhaustion to sleep was worth the entire effort. The next day we woke up and began our descent to our base camp. The daunting descent did not scare us so much as we concluded our trek at our base village. With promises to keep in touch we parted ways with our trek members.

Ketaki made a new friend in the mountains

I have come to the realization that the more secluded the place you are aiming, more is the thrill of anticipation. Also, there is an air of romanticism about mountains. There is a pull that I experience towards the mountains which cannot be expressed in words. I imagine those peaks untouched for millions of years and yet imagine the flurry of life these mountains have seen in their tenure.   Mountains are the closest to the sun and yet are the coldest places in the world. The clouds meander around the peaks like lovers pursuing and trying to get attention. Yet these mountains remain solitary and unmoved. Post this trip, this tryst with mountains will energize me more to find solace in reaching out to more peaks.

A special mention to Indiahikes team, our guides Nikita and Darshan who made this arduous journey a joyful one. Stay tuned for my next mountain adventure. Stay safe and Travel!